Sylt, Germany

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Parent Category: Travel Over There
Category: 2014 - Gap Year
Created: Monday, 22 September 2014 21:57

Welcome to Sylt, We hope you enjoy your stay!I had a few days remaining in Europe before flying to Vancouver for the next leg and I thought it would be great to spend m shaped island in the north of Germany with 40 kilometres of beach. The island is constantly changing shape as the North and Wadden (a UNESCO site) seas lap and erode its shores. Sylt advertises itself as a resort island and culinary destination with many health spas and restaurants. Sylt is also home the Windsufing World Cup. The only access to the island is by train or ferry. If you want to bring your vehicle it can be loaded onto a train Niebüll.

The train stops at Westerland and the first thing that greets you there are weird green statues of a family on holiday. What makes the statues unusual is that their faces are mixed up and one is upside down. I have no idea what message this is supposed to send visitors, but it makes for an interesting entrance.

We rented a camping pitch at one of the campgrounds, Dünen Campingplatz, which was predominately for caravans but a short distance beyond the restaurant and showers were the dunes where our pitch was located. There were a number of tents scattered amongst the dunes and we found a small area that was reasonably quiet to set up in. Our three days here would be spent relaxing, walking, swimming and eating.

Sand Dunes stretch the entire coastline of SyltThe campground had an access to the beach over the dunes and our camping fee included beach access. I’m not used to the idea of paying to access a beach but I would guess the fee goes towards paying for the dredging that keeps the island from eroding to nothing. The beach is beautiful, around 50 metres of flat white sand being lapped at by the North Sea, skirted by sand dunes as far as the eye can see. The beach never seemed crowded while we were there, maybe because we were too early in the season or just because there is so much beach you only have to congregate if you want to.

We walked the beach enjoying the sun and stopping occasionally for a swim. We paused at one point, and while taking in the view of the North Sea, I noticed that many of the people were naked. I thought that I must have inadvertently come across the nude section but I couldn’t find a sign specifying it. As we continued our southerly walk I became aware that people were randomly naked. To the left I would see an elderly couple playing nude beach tennis while a few metres away a clothed family built sandcastles. Further along a person doing naked yoga while others played Frisbee. It was an altogether odd experience as in Australia I was used to nude beaches being clearly marked and a general prudishness to the beachgoers at nearby clothed beaches. Here, nobody seemed to notice and definitely nobody cared. It was quite liberating to walk amongst people that were enjoying themselves as they saw fit, not hurting anyone, and not have some prudes ruin the mood.

Just another day relaxing on the beach and swimming in the North SeaThe beaches are quite clean near the lifeguard towers but have the usual scattering of plastics between. We spent a bit of time collecting the trash and dropping at the frequently placed bins along the way and feeling a little disappointed that beachgoers here were so tardy with litter.

South of Westerland we came across some interesting thatch rooved buildings which marked the village of Kampener Heide. We wandered inland here to see what was there. We eventually found a café and had coffee and cake (a dish the Germans do very well). Looking for other nearby attractions we didn’t have much luck even though there were signs directing us.

On our final night we sat on the beach to watch the sunset at 10pm, and take a swim in the North Sea. The air on the beach was frigid, somewhere around 7 or 8 degrees and the wind was blowing make it feel even colder. The water however was great. Around 16 degrees, it felt like a cool bath compared to the beach. We swam for an hour or more under the moonlight trying to get dunked too harshly by the crashing waves of high tide before running madly across the beach to dry and get dressed before we were frozen by the wind.

Sunset on the North Sea

A nice little wood to walk in, Westerland, SyltAround Westerland there is the beach, a small wood to wander through, dozens of restaurants and hotels, and boutique stores selling chocolates, trinkets and souvenirs. The island is considered a culinary icon but personally I found the food to be rather plain. I was also disappointed that nowhere I looked could I find a take away that served fish and chips to eat on the beach. Westerland is a resort town, and doesn’t pretend to be anything else. If I came again, I would more than likely head north or south of Westerland into the less populated regions to spend my time and see what else the island has to offer.

We left Sylt and returned to Bremen in time for Germany to win their first match of the World Cup. The streets outside the Hbf were filled with cars and people cheering. It was surreal after being on a beach for three days. It made me wonder what it would be like to be here if Germany won the World Cup (which they did).The foreshore at Westerland, Sylt

 

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Beer in Aschaffenburg and where to drink it 

 

Beer in Aschaffenburg and where to drink it

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Parent Category: Travel Over There
Category: 2014 - Gap Year
Created: Monday, 22 September 2014 21:36

Faust, a German BeerBeer is an integral part of the German Culture I have experienced, and every bar and biergarten will have a small selection of beers available for you to choose from based on your mood. One of the more interesting parts of this culture is the German Beer Law which is based on the Bavarian Purity Law of 1516. This law established how beer was to be brewed including safety of product and to ensure that brewing did not interfere with the production of bread as both were staples of Bavarian life and utilised ingredients that placed the industries in direct competition. By 1906 this law had been adopted by all German states and colonies and was thus established as the German Beer Law. You may think that this would place many restrictions on the creativity of brewers but from my experience it created an excellent framework of minimum standards from which to build an industry.

The Augustine beers are brewed in strict accordance with the purity law and I tried the Edelstoff Exportbier brewed in München. It was a bright beer with a slight bitter aftertaste but my preference soon became Weizenbeir. When I was in Germany last time visiting Frankfurt and then Bremen, I had not enjoyed the weizenbeir. There was a muddiness to the flavour that I didn’t like, but being in a different region I tried it again and I’m glad I did. The weizenbeir here, in the Bavarian style, while lighter in overall flavours still had a great body and was extremely tasty.

As I like to taste as much as I can in a region, I also tried beers such as Tegernseer Hell from Herzoglich-Bayerilches Brauhaus; The Radler and Pilsner from Martinsbrau; a Pilsner from Pfungstadt; Spessart Specht, a delightful Pilsner; and a few different beers from Brauhaus Faust and Schlappeseppel.

Traditional Bavarian breakfast: a pint of Weiss Beer, 2 Weiswurst (boiled) and a Brezn (a large pretzel) served with a sweet mustard on the side.Schlappeseppel beers were available at many of the biergartens I visited. Their beers were quite good, made in the Bavarian style. The brewery is also home to a restaurant which I visited with a few locals (Seb & Max) that I had met a few nights previously. We came here for a traditional Bavarian breakfast which was intense. The breakfast consists of a pint of Weiss Beer, 2 Weiswurst (boiled) and a Brezn (a large pretzel) served with a sweet mustard on the side. Bavarians normally skin the sausage before topping it with mustard. What makes the breakfast intense is the density of it all. Each part is much denser than it looks, but it is tasty. I found that I had to have two beers to be able to finish it all.

Baba Bier was founded in Aschaffenburg and had their first beer tasting in 1868 and steadily expanded until they began exporting beer in 1895 and in the early 20th century began assimilating other breweries. Baba Beir is a heady and hoppy cultural icon, and if you are visiting here I would recommend you try it, and if you get to the restaurant early enough, have it with a meal.

Baba Bier, an Aschaffenburg TraditionMartins Brau Raddler and Pilsner

Raddler is quite a popular beer in Aschaffenburg, and is available everywhere. In Australia a Raddler would be called a shandy, a 50/50 mixture of beer and lemonade, and is not widely consumed. Here it is available everywhere and is drunk by everyone depending on their mood. Almost every brewery makes one or two varieties of alcohol free beer as well.

Along with a number of good pubs and bars, Germany celebrates the biergarten. Biergartens usually have many large tables set in a courtyard and if it is busy you ask people with space at their table if you can join them. Most of the time people will let you sit at the table.

I really enjoyed the Fansanerie, a Schalppeseppel bar, nestled in a park with an old farmhouse it provided a great atmosphere. Dozens of tables (each fitting around 8 people) under umbrellas fill the courtyard while to the left of the entrance is the bar, to the right is the kitchen where you can order light snacks and meals.

The Zueghaus (Armory) is located a few minutes from the Fansanerie and is a refurbished inn. The refurbishment is wonderful and well worth the visit just to look at with a grand dining hall that has to be seen to be believed. The biergarten fills the courtyard and stretches between the hall and the bar providing ample seating under the shade of some large trees. The food is good and decently priced with good service.

On a bright sunny day, the Biergarten am Main is a great place to stop for a beverage. Located below the castle on the riverbanks they have a small area of tables under the shade of large trees.

The beirgarten at the Schweinheim GuesthouseAnother beautiful biergarten that offers some excellent food is the Schoenbusch, it is a country manor in a large park that has a few areas to enjoy. If you want something lush, the main restaurant at the country manor is the way to go, but for my money I prefer the open biergarten just a bit further on. Tables are arranged beneath some grand trees, so at the right time of day you have great shade or sunshine.

One night we were looking for a new biergarten to enjoy a nice dinner after swimming. A quick web search and we found Ottels Biergarten and went to seek it out. It was difficult to find, located in a light industrial area and next to a Sports Club, but it was a small biergarten with very nice food and excellent service at a good price.

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Three German Castles

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Parent Category: Travel Over There
Category: 2014 - Gap Year
Created: Monday, 22 September 2014 13:27

The view from Burg (Castle) Frankenstein

In Europe it is difficult to visit a country and not go to a castle (unless you’re European in which case castles are everyday sights for most). There were three castles that I visited that I’d like to talk about. One because of the name, another because it was hidden and beautiful, and the other because it was grand even in ruins.

An important thing to note is that in Germany there are different classifications for what we generally refer to as Castles. One is Schloss: generally referring to buildings otherwise known as château, palace, manor house or stately house. Another is Burg: an ancient mediaeval fortress or walled town.

Approaching Burg (Castle) Frankenstein, GermanyBurg Frankenstein is real. It exists and I went there. It is a small castle, only a shell of the once impressive structure, first mentioned in the 10th century (previously thought to be the 13th but recently discovered documents have changed this), situated 400 metres above the Rhine valley it still has a great view of the surrounding countryside to the west and a beautiful wood with walking trails to the east.

When I came to visit the castle I was not impressed. I walked around the ruin within half an hour, and climbed the short staircase in the tower living quarters and took in the view, but I was thinking “How is this tiny ruin the inspiration for Mary Shelly’s Frankenstein?” I couldn’t even imagine this place looking imposing (for a castle, in a region with many of castles) let alone inspiring. Castle Frankenstein may not be a grand ruin to visit, but when you get to know the history of it, the experience becomes better. When you buy your entrance ticket I highly recommend that you also get the Burg Frankenstein booklet to enhance your visit of this fascinating site.

Castle Frankenstein is of a different design to others in the area. This is due to the location and terrain. When this castle was built, the woods immediately surrounding the castle were farmland which provided the castle with exceptional views over all the Frankenstein’s lands. An easily defensible location, sentries were able to spot invaders and archers to shoot them, the hilltop offers only a small area on which to build. As such the castle has only a singular dwelling tower built into the inner wall, and where a central tower could have been located rests a well. The inner court was part of specific defence strategy if the main tower was taken – aggressors would have to enter the open court to access the well and granaries, allowing the defenders to strike them easily. Aside from the inner court with giant lime tree, most of the area inside the battlements was granaries, living quarters, the chapel, and livestock pens. If you are interested in mediaeval history, military strategy or architecture, this castle provides a unique perspective on the region. Also, they have a trebuchet, which is just cool.

The Frankenstein’s were in the region for over four centuries, but they sold the castle in 1662 to the Landgrave of Hessen. The castle also has many legends and stories which add a flavour to the experience, or my case the memories. ‘The Donkey Fee of Bessungen’ is an interesting story about the patriarchal society. There is the legend of Knight George and the Dragon, a blending of local history and the legend of Saint George. Then there is the story of Mary Shelly’s Frankenstein.

Burg Wertheim, GermanyBurg Wertheim is located 90kms south east of Frankfurt where the Tauber River enters the Main. The castle sits high above the town and even in ruins looks impressive. The area was first settled in in the 7th century and the castle was constructed in the 12th century. The castle was severely damaged in a gunpowder explosion in 1619 and further damaged during the 30 Years War in 1634. An interesting thing to note is the Wertheim family became divided in 1630 into Protestants and Catholics. Since 1995 the castle has been owned by the Wertheim municipality and has received much needed restoration.

Entry cost 1€ is well worth it to wander the ruin with its hulking battlements. In its centre is a gorge with enhances the already impressive walls. When you look down into the gorge from the central tower you feel a little vertigo and when you look up at the tower, you feel dwarfed by the immensity. The views of the town from the battlements, tower and the restaurant are excellent, with several signs detailing the buildings in view and in the distance you can still see a watchtower on the hill.

Burg Wertheim, GermanyBurg Wertheim, Germany

The castle is also associated with Grail legend of Parsifal written by Wolfram von Eschenbach, an impoverished knight who apparently served at Wertheim, although the only references I could find confirming this was ‘Parsifal’ itself.

Surrounding the castle is a beautiful mediaeval town centre that is very well maintained and has an excellent example of a Gothic Cathedral. It a great place to visit and an excellent counterpoint to Burg Frankenstein.

Schloss (Castle) Mespelbrunn, GermanySchloss Mespelbrunn is a small but beautiful castle located 35km south east from Aschaffenburg. It lays in a beautiful wooded valley and is one of the luckiest castles in Germany as it has not been destroyed or damaged in the 30 Years War nor any later conflicts. Construction of the tower began in the 15th century with later buildings added over the centuries. One of the things that makes this castle so beautiful, aside from the surrounds, is that it if fronted by a square pond the width of the castle.

The castle offers guided tours in German regularly but in English only by pre-arrangement and for a group. There is however a small brochure that provides many details of the rooms that you visit, so even if you don’t understand German you can read as you go in order to get a greater appreciation of the tour. The tour goes for approximately thirty minutes and take you through half a dozen rooms.

The Knights Hall is the only room on the tour where you are allowed to take pictures. It contains a number of antlers from royal hunts, some armour and a few weapons. On the far side of the room is the family chapel which is very ornate. An interesting part of this room is the window overlooking the pond, which uses stain glass coats of arms to detail the genealogy of the family.

The remainder of the tour takes you through rooms that are loaded with artefacts. The Banquet hall contains some excellent porcelain pieces and a range of weapons including crossbows, pikes, swords, pistols and rifles. At the end of the hall is the family ceremonial sword. The other rooms show you more of the history of the family including artefacts of their history and importance including portraits, documents and correspondence, and furniture as well as items from their various hobbies over the generations.

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Sylt

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