Three German Castles

Details
Parent Category: Travel Over There
Category: 2014 - Gap Year
Created: Monday, 22 September 2014 13:27

The view from Burg (Castle) Frankenstein

In Europe it is difficult to visit a country and not go to a castle (unless you’re European in which case castles are everyday sights for most). There were three castles that I visited that I’d like to talk about. One because of the name, another because it was hidden and beautiful, and the other because it was grand even in ruins.

An important thing to note is that in Germany there are different classifications for what we generally refer to as Castles. One is Schloss: generally referring to buildings otherwise known as château, palace, manor house or stately house. Another is Burg: an ancient mediaeval fortress or walled town.

Approaching Burg (Castle) Frankenstein, GermanyBurg Frankenstein is real. It exists and I went there. It is a small castle, only a shell of the once impressive structure, first mentioned in the 10th century (previously thought to be the 13th but recently discovered documents have changed this), situated 400 metres above the Rhine valley it still has a great view of the surrounding countryside to the west and a beautiful wood with walking trails to the east.

When I came to visit the castle I was not impressed. I walked around the ruin within half an hour, and climbed the short staircase in the tower living quarters and took in the view, but I was thinking “How is this tiny ruin the inspiration for Mary Shelly’s Frankenstein?” I couldn’t even imagine this place looking imposing (for a castle, in a region with many of castles) let alone inspiring. Castle Frankenstein may not be a grand ruin to visit, but when you get to know the history of it, the experience becomes better. When you buy your entrance ticket I highly recommend that you also get the Burg Frankenstein booklet to enhance your visit of this fascinating site.

Castle Frankenstein is of a different design to others in the area. This is due to the location and terrain. When this castle was built, the woods immediately surrounding the castle were farmland which provided the castle with exceptional views over all the Frankenstein’s lands. An easily defensible location, sentries were able to spot invaders and archers to shoot them, the hilltop offers only a small area on which to build. As such the castle has only a singular dwelling tower built into the inner wall, and where a central tower could have been located rests a well. The inner court was part of specific defence strategy if the main tower was taken – aggressors would have to enter the open court to access the well and granaries, allowing the defenders to strike them easily. Aside from the inner court with giant lime tree, most of the area inside the battlements was granaries, living quarters, the chapel, and livestock pens. If you are interested in mediaeval history, military strategy or architecture, this castle provides a unique perspective on the region. Also, they have a trebuchet, which is just cool.

The Frankenstein’s were in the region for over four centuries, but they sold the castle in 1662 to the Landgrave of Hessen. The castle also has many legends and stories which add a flavour to the experience, or my case the memories. ‘The Donkey Fee of Bessungen’ is an interesting story about the patriarchal society. There is the legend of Knight George and the Dragon, a blending of local history and the legend of Saint George. Then there is the story of Mary Shelly’s Frankenstein.

Burg Wertheim, GermanyBurg Wertheim is located 90kms south east of Frankfurt where the Tauber River enters the Main. The castle sits high above the town and even in ruins looks impressive. The area was first settled in in the 7th century and the castle was constructed in the 12th century. The castle was severely damaged in a gunpowder explosion in 1619 and further damaged during the 30 Years War in 1634. An interesting thing to note is the Wertheim family became divided in 1630 into Protestants and Catholics. Since 1995 the castle has been owned by the Wertheim municipality and has received much needed restoration.

Entry cost 1€ is well worth it to wander the ruin with its hulking battlements. In its centre is a gorge with enhances the already impressive walls. When you look down into the gorge from the central tower you feel a little vertigo and when you look up at the tower, you feel dwarfed by the immensity. The views of the town from the battlements, tower and the restaurant are excellent, with several signs detailing the buildings in view and in the distance you can still see a watchtower on the hill.

Burg Wertheim, GermanyBurg Wertheim, Germany

The castle is also associated with Grail legend of Parsifal written by Wolfram von Eschenbach, an impoverished knight who apparently served at Wertheim, although the only references I could find confirming this was ‘Parsifal’ itself.

Surrounding the castle is a beautiful mediaeval town centre that is very well maintained and has an excellent example of a Gothic Cathedral. It a great place to visit and an excellent counterpoint to Burg Frankenstein.

Schloss (Castle) Mespelbrunn, GermanySchloss Mespelbrunn is a small but beautiful castle located 35km south east from Aschaffenburg. It lays in a beautiful wooded valley and is one of the luckiest castles in Germany as it has not been destroyed or damaged in the 30 Years War nor any later conflicts. Construction of the tower began in the 15th century with later buildings added over the centuries. One of the things that makes this castle so beautiful, aside from the surrounds, is that it if fronted by a square pond the width of the castle.

The castle offers guided tours in German regularly but in English only by pre-arrangement and for a group. There is however a small brochure that provides many details of the rooms that you visit, so even if you don’t understand German you can read as you go in order to get a greater appreciation of the tour. The tour goes for approximately thirty minutes and take you through half a dozen rooms.

The Knights Hall is the only room on the tour where you are allowed to take pictures. It contains a number of antlers from royal hunts, some armour and a few weapons. On the far side of the room is the family chapel which is very ornate. An interesting part of this room is the window overlooking the pond, which uses stain glass coats of arms to detail the genealogy of the family.

The remainder of the tour takes you through rooms that are loaded with artefacts. The Banquet hall contains some excellent porcelain pieces and a range of weapons including crossbows, pikes, swords, pistols and rifles. At the end of the hall is the family ceremonial sword. The other rooms show you more of the history of the family including artefacts of their history and importance including portraits, documents and correspondence, and furniture as well as items from their various hobbies over the generations.

Other Articles from Germany

Frankfurt

Diverbo 

Bremen

Aschaffenburg 

Beer in Aschaffenburg and where to drink it 

Sylt

Aschaffenburg

Details
Parent Category: Travel Over There
Category: 2014 - Gap Year
Created: Monday, 22 September 2014 13:24

Schloss Johannisburg in Aschaffenburg, GermanySchloss Johannisburg in Aschaffenburg, GermanyIn June, I flew back to Frankfurt to catch up with a friend, Daniella, whom we had met at Diverbo and spent time with again in Brussels.

Daniella lives near Aschaffenburg, 40kms east of Frankfurt and most people have probably never heard of it. A small city of 67,000, it is located on the border between the Bavarian and Franken cultures and has its own dialect separate from both. Being here and talking with locals, it became apparent how new ‘Germany’ is as a unified country, and not just the reunification of East and West, but of all the states. The supposed homogenisation of Germany only exists on an international stage as each state still has its own distinctive dialect and culture. Each state is also very proud of their heritage, which they celebrate often and with gusto.

Aschaffenburg was a pleasure to visit and explore and surprised me by the amount of activities to do, both as a tourist and as a local. Whether it is exploring the local architecture, museums & galleries, beer gardens & restaurants, or parks, there is something for most everyone here. During my time I visited a bit of everything and also tried to get an understanding of ordinary life.

Along the riverfront is the Schloss Johannisburg, a 17th century renaissance palace that has been heavily restored after damage sustained during the Second World War. Nearby, on the high bank of the river, is the Schlossgarten with a beautiful terrace and paths linking to the Pompeiianum, commissioned by King Ludwig I. It is a beautiful structure with a view over the river and surrounded by gardens, that is used for weddings and other events. There are a few paths along the high and low riverbank that offer some wonderful views and respite from the city.

Europe in the spring and summer is full of festivals and events as everyone enjoys the sunshine while it lasts. While it was still early in the festival season, I did manage to see a few events, although I saw the advertisements for many more.

Hofgarten Cabaret - Austria meets BavariaHofgarten Cabaret - Austria meets BavariaOne of the first I saw was at the Hofgarten Kabarett: ‘Austria meets Bavaria’. Three musicians took to the stage and proceeded to play folk rock with lyrics sung in Bavarian and Austrian dialects, as well as High German. For the most part the crowd was still, providing applause only at the conclusion of a piece, there were a few popular songs that had everyone (who knew them) bopping along.

At one of the nearby villages, Hofgut, we managed to catch a jazz performance in the beirgarten of the Schweinheim Guesthouse. The guesthouse had a great feel to it with groups of people sitting at long picnic tables eating and drinking through the night.

Kunst im SchlossparkKunst im Schlosspark

Kunst im SchlossparkKunst im SchlossparkAnother event that I was privileged to visit was the ‘Kunst im Schlosspark’ at the Schlosshotel Weyberhöfe. The hotel grounds have several open areas amidst the trees, and these spaces had been converted to a wonderful open air gallery. There was a good range of paintings on display, some sculpture, and digital works. The artists were onsite to discuss their pieces and hopefully sell their wares. Along a river stretching away from the gallery areas was a marketplace where many a trinket was available. It was easy to spend a couple of hours looking at the art and enjoying the space, so we were glad that there was a variety of food and drink available (although it was overpriced and not the best).

Part of the joy I find in visiting new places is tasting the food and drink, and while I was here I explored a variety of local choices.

The first night here, we drove to Wurzburg, 80kms from Aschaffenburg to see a mutual friend and her husband. We ate at a popular restaurant overlooking and the river to the castle, the Gasthaus Alte Mainmühle, offering traditional Franken food. I had Braised Schweineschäufele with dark beer, creamed savoy cabbage and homemade dumplings. The meat, pork from the shoulder, was excellent and tender, and the dark beer sauce was rich and thick (and we had to keep ordering more to keep the meat coated). The dumpling and cabbage were a good accompaniment although not excellent. I washed the meal down with a good local Weizenbeir.

While visiting this area, I felt compelled to explore the German fascination with Würst, or sausage. Everywhere had some form of sausage on the menu, the most common was currywürst. Currywürst is a pork sausage that is steamed then fried and served with a sweet curry sauce. There were many other sausages that I tried with varying levels of quality. It made me realise that my understanding of German sausages, developed from what I have tasted when visiting Hahndorf in South Australia and various German festivals over the years, is not correct. Eating Würst in Germany I found that they are simpler than what I understood them to be, and with less herbs and spices added. This does not make them inferior in any way but it does make you wonder about what happens when one country assimilates another cultures flavours. German sausages are excellently constructed and lightly flavoured and it is well worth trying the many varieties as you come across them. While I was here I tried Bierwurst (A lightly peppered and smoked Bavarian sausage), FränkischeBratwurst (a long sausage with a chunky filling and hints of marjoram), and Weisswurst (a finely minced pork sausage lightly seasoned with parlsey, lemon and garlic. It is cooked in salt water). Another excellent dish was Wurstsalat and Obatzda (an onion and cream cheese mixture) served with bread. You spread a little of the Wurstsalat and/or Obatzda on the bread, the sweet and sour mix over a lightly salted bread is excellent. Each sausage was a delight to taste and if you aren’t vegetarian I would recommend you try some everywhere you go through Germany.

FlammkuchenFlammkuchenOne night we went out looking for a specific dish before we had a few drinks. The dish was called Flammkuchen; diced ham, shredded cheese and herbs over pita bread then baked. It’s the local version of pizza and, while simple, it is very good, especially when accompanied by a Raddler. We met a couple of locals, Seb and Max, and had a great night out as we visited a few bars including Wurst Bendel Wirsthaus which serves a locally famous beer called Baba Bier.

One we went to a place called MiniBar, near the centre of town to listen to a live act. Minibar is a cosy bar with comfortable couches and a small outdoor area. It has a great vibe and the music was good as well. The performance we saw was a solo singer/guitarist performing popular songs from the last few decades with an occasional original. The music in between sets was generally relaxed rock. It’s a nice bar to relax in after a meal or to warm up before going to a club. 

Aschaffenburg has many restaurants, cafés, eateries and biergartens that offer variety of international cuisines as well as local fare.

Chad and Daniela Hiking in the SpessartChad and Daniela Hiking in the SpessartThe area surrounding Aschaffenburg has a number of excellent areas to hike. We took a walk out in the Spessart, a nearby region, along one of the numerous trails, most of which were clearly marked but a few side trails that were not which can allow you to lose your path quite easily. The good thing is that all the trails lead back onto main tracks so you can never really get lost. Another excellent thing about hiking out here is that there are family operated hiker’s huts where you can rent a room, get a meal and a drink. It was at one of these that I tried the Martinsbrau Radler and Pilsner, as well as traditional sauerkraut.

Chad and Daniela Hiking in the Spessart with a deerChad and Daniela Hiking in the Spessart with a deerWe intended to walk through the forest and fields and make our way to a café for some afternoon tea. Unfortunately there are few with an outdoor area so we moved on taking a trail on the other side of the highway back to the car. The area was a pleasure to walk through, and it was made even more wonderful by the deer we saw on the trails and in the forest.

In early June the weather was beginning to warm into the low 30’s, which I normally love, but after travelling in areas where the temperature barely touched 20 I was feeling the heat. To relieve ourselves of the heat we visited a lake at Niedernberg, a nearby town. The lake had a resort on one end but there was an open trail through a light wood surrounding the rest of it. Every few metres the trail would have a small bathing area for people to occupy. The earlier you get here, the better your chance of getting one of these small semi-private ‘coves’. If you miss out, you just have to sit on the one of the larger beaches scattered around with everyone else, most of whom sunbathe over swim. While the lake was busy it never felt crowded, and was a wonderful place to relax, swim and cool down. An interesting cultural point is that women here sunbathe topless and nobody cares or notices, it is just a normal thing to do.

Other Articles from Germany

Frankfurt

Diverbo 

Bremen

Three German Castles 

Beer in Aschaffenburg and where to drink it

Sylt

 

Bremen

Details
Parent Category: Travel Over There
Category: 2014 - Gap Year
Created: Saturday, 06 September 2014 14:14

The reason we travelled to Bremen was to meet a friend of mine. We had been friends for over a decade but had not seen each other in a number of years as our lives had gone separate ways.

Bremen is a beautiful German city, more so than I had given it credit for prior to coming here. The city has a great variety of activities for all and many of them are within walking distance of the city centre. Surrounding the city are parklands which offer a delightful area to relax, as well as the riverfront which has many grassed areas.

Market Square, Bremen, Germany

St Peters Cathedral, Bremen, GermanyThe city is over 1200 years old, and is centred on the Market Square (a UNESCO site). The square is home to numerous historical buildings such as the Town Hall (1405-1410 CE), St Peters Cathedral (900 CE), The Schütting Guildhouse (now the Chamber of Commerce) and many more which make for an impressive panorama. In front of the town hall there is the largest statue of Roland in Germany, symbolizing Bremen’s independence, and around the corner are the Town Musicians of Bremen (1953), from the Grimm Brothers fairy tale of four animals who made their way to city to become musicians. There are a few Cafés on the square but be warned they are expensive. St Peters Cathedral is quite impressive in its construction, but it is beautifully minimalist inside. From the basement chapel through the main hall, it is excellently maintained and decorated with geometric patterns throughout. There are small areas where they have uncovered pre-Lutheran art which have been kept and maintained. The Market Square also hosts a produce market.

Off the southern side of the Market Square is Bötcherstrasse, bought by Ludwig Roselius in the 1920’s and renovated in an art nouveau style. The street has a number of boutique stores, two art galleries and a pub with an interesting story, the Ständige Vertretung (StäV). The interior of the StäV is filled with pictures highlighting the 40 year history and political figures of West and East Germany until Reunification, giving the visitor a visual lecture if they are so inclined. The StäV also offers Kölsch in a variety of sizes from very small glasses (150mls to keep it fresh and stop it getting warm) up to ten litre kegs for your table or to take away. If you order the small glasses a waiter will keep replacing them until you place a coaster over the glass. Directly outside the StäV is one of the major tourist points in town, a glockenspiel that chimes for ten minutes on the hour throughout the afternoon. As the glockenspiel chimes a section of the wall rotates revealing pictures of the history of aviation. The galleries are the Paula Modersohn-Becker Museum (Expressionist art) and Roseliushaus (Museum of interiors).

On the southern side of the city is the Schlaachte Embankment, a stretch of bars, cafes, restaurants and beer gardens. There are many a place to relax and enjoy the company of friends with a beer and food. The beer gardens will charge you an extra 1€ per glass on the first round and give you a token to redeem at the end.

Schnoor, Bremen, GermanyOn the south eastern corner of the city is the Schnoor, an area built in the 15th and 16th centuries which was a poor district. Having survived WW2 intact, it has been rejuvenated since 1958 and has since become a major tourist attraction filled with art and craft stores, goldsmiths, and cafes. The buildings are very close together and there is no uniformity for the width of the streets, with one so thin you have walk sideways through it.

Over the river to the east of the city is one of the most vibrant and cosmopolitan areas of the city, the Viertel. Full of restaurants, bars, cafes and clubs, the Viertel has a wide appeal and offers a little something for everyone. Each time I visited the Viertel was thrumming with people.

Burgerpark, Bremen, GermanyTo the north of the city, beyond the Hauptbahnhopf is Bürgerpark, a wonderful wooded area with dozens of trails to meander. There is a luxury hotel at the southern entrance and a petting zoo on the western side. It is a beautiful area to enjoy and escape the city for a while.

There is a tour of the city centre you can take which provides an excellent introduction to Bremen. After the tour we took our guide to The StäV for a drink where he shared many stories with us of Bremen and particularly the institutes that work with the European Space Agency where he used to work.

An interesting thing of note regarding Bremen is that it is the birthplace of Joachim Neander, after whom Neanderthals were renamed.

Bremen was a great place to visit and a surprisingly enjoyable backdrop (most of the Germans we had spoken to previously had said it was a boring city) for spending time with my friend.

the Ständige Vertretung (StäV), Bremen, Germany

Other Articles from Germany

Frankfurt

Diverbo 

Aschaffenburg

Three German Castles 

Beer in Aschaffenburg and where to drink it

 

Subcategories

Joomla! Debug Console

Session

Profile Information

Memory Usage

Database Queries