Trek Day 4 - Tadapani to Jhinu, Nepal

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Parent Category: Travel Over There
Category: Nepal
Created: Thursday, 12 April 2012 13:44

Tadapani to Jhinu, Nepal - The view from our roomWhen we emerge from our rooms, the world is white. Hail has fallen so thick through the night that it blankets the ground like snow. Above the tree line, through breaks in the clouds are snow covered peaks. Over breakfast we learn that many of the local farmers are worried about the crops from all the hail (we learned upon our return to Pokhara that the storm devastated the area and destroyed a substantial amount of the crops in the region).

We begin our trek on a downhill trail, the ice crunches underfoot as we descend through a lush forest. Everywhere the sun breaks through the trees the ice is turning to slurry and by 10am it is mostly gone with only a few patches remaining. The air is so fresh and clean, the green of the trees and grasses so vibrant that it is like walking in a different world.

Tadapani to Jhinu, NepalTadapani to Jhinu, Nepal

 

We come to a downhill area with a narrow track and small mounds on either side which gave the idea to run and leap between the banks.

The hike this day was refreshing. The first 3 ½ kilometres were downhill through rainforest followed by 2km of uphill in woodland then the rest of the way to Jhinu was down through farming terraces. The second half of the trail has a view of the valley and when we were gifted by the majestic sight of an Eagle in flight.

Tadapani to Jhinu, Nepal Tadapani to Jhinu, Nepal

By the time we reached Jhinu, most of our group were weary from four days walking. So we rested and met some other travellers staying at the guest house.

  Tadapani to Jhinu, Nepal Tadapani to Jhinu, Nepal

Tadapani to Jhinu, Nepal Tadapani to Jhinu, Nepal

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 5

Day 6


 

Trek Day 3 - Ghorepani to Tadapani, Nepal

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Parent Category: Travel Over There
Category: Nepal
Created: Thursday, 12 April 2012 13:41


Sunrise at Poon HillPre-dawn, tourists pour out of guest houses bleary eyed, armed with torches. The world is lit by the full moon, with torch glows meandering through town and up into the sky. Behind a guest house is the well worn path up the hill. There are dozens ahead of us already and more filling the path behind as we make our way for the spectacle of the sun cresting Himalaya.

Poon Hill is at 3200 metres and has a viewing platform at the top of the hill. The platform is filled by the eager and earlier tourists vying for the perfect spot for their photos. The rest of us move around the hill top clearing admiring the view.

Poon Hill, NepalPoon Hill, NepalPoon Hill, Nepal

Poon Hill, NepalPoon Hill, NepalPoon Hill, Nepal

The sky gradually lightens revealing the silhouettes of mountains. The minutes pass and more detail emerges: white caps, crevasses, crags, foliage, trails and homes. The world is illuminated long before we see the sun. A roar erupts, spreading through the gathered mass as the golden orb of the sun comes into view at last. The fervor that infects the crowd is amazing, everyone thralled by the sight of this new day dawned. After a while the crowd begins to move some for more photos while others descend to their Guest houses for breakfast.

After breakfast we begin our trek to Tadapani. We start with an uphill trail through a forest of Rhododendron arboreum (The national flower of Nepal, and one of the main reasons people choose to hike through Nepal in April) in full bloom, venturing higher than Poon Hill. We stopped a while and took in the impressive vista before continuing along the ridge top through the clouds. Our small group fell a way behind the others and we treated to an exquisite serenity broken only by the occasional bird song. For an hour we journeyed among the clouds gradually descending into the valley. Along the path are various small shrines and memorials, some of which are quite beautiful. At one point we came across a love heart made of Rhododendron flowers.

Ghorepani to Tadapani, Nepal Ghorepani to Tadapani, Nepal Ghorepani to Tadapani, Nepal

Ghorepani to Tadapani, Nepal Ghorepani to Tadapani, Nepal Ghorepani to Tadapani, Nepal

During the descent there were a few small showers prompting us to don our wet weather gear. As we neared the low point the sky crackled and roared, the clouds so peaceful earlier now aflame with arcs of lighting. The thunder followed almost immediately upon each flash, the crack of a whip followed by deep reverberating growls that echoed through the valley. My team of fellow adventurers had previously been feeling rather flat and tired, but they became renewed as though drawing energy from the chaos in the heavens above. The rain fell thick and fast and before we knew it the trail was a stream flowing over our boots. Then came a small sting on the back of my hand, then another, and we were inundated by pea sized hail.

Rejuvenated, we made our way up the mountain in the rain and hail, water cascading down the stairs and over our boots. We cheered the spectacle, and dared the gods for more. A short way up a group of hikers had taken refuge in an alcove. We waved as we continued our way as the land turned white and the trail nothing more than a river.

 

Ghorepani to Tadapani, NepalGhorepani to Tadapani, NepalGhorepani to Tadapani, Nepal

When we reached Tadapani, our pants and boots were drenched, but we were enlivened. We changed our clothes and sat a while watching the storm which continued through the night. In the communal dining room we met a couple and two Ukrainian trekkers who were doing the full Anapurna Base Camp Trek. We shared Ukrainian Vodka and Spec, telling tales of our various adventures as the night grew old.

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Day 2

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Day 6

Trek Day 2 - Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani, Nepal

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Parent Category: Travel Over There
Category: Nepal
Created: Thursday, 12 April 2012 13:34

Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani, NepalFrom Tikhedhunga we take what we are told to be 3200 stone steps to Ulleri on the way to Ghorepani where we will spend the night. While the area is absolutely gorgeous, everyone seemed pretty sure there are vastly more than 3200 steps. It can be a bit of a push to start the morning with a steep stair climb into the mountains but once you find your rhythm you should be alright.

If you are a little worried about so many steps in a row, you might want to train for them. Thankfully I work in a 5 story building which I was able to utilise to train with. If you aren't as lucky as me, then I suggest that you find a place that has a few flights of stairs in a public area and use them. You start with a few trips up and down, gradually work your way to a greater level of fitness and before you know it what seemed a challenge is easier.

A very important thing to remember when undertaking a hike like this is to ensure you don't forget to take in the sights. The views as you rise out of the valley are simply incredible. The clouds dance upon mountain tops and the sun casts it's light to various effect throughout the day. There are so many wonderful views that you could easily take hundreds of photos.

I also found that having a little dance along the way helps make it easier.

Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani, NepalWe stay at Ulleri for an hour or so, eating lunch, enjoying the view, relaxing and dancing after conquering the famed steps. With everyone in good cheer, we continue on our way to Ghorepani. The thing about the path from from Ulleri is that you still need to ascend for a bit, and that ascension is up more steps. It's not all upwards and onwards though because it's on this day that you get told a small local truth about Nepal from your sherpas – Anapurna is “Nepali flat, A little bit up and a little bit down”. The best thing for me though was how the environment changed from farm land scattered with trees to rainforest. Personally, I found the new environment energising with every sense filled with a new wonder that distracted me until we reached the large township of Ghorepani.

Here we stayed in a large guest house that catered for around 100 people. It was by far the largest we came across during our six days. The accommodation was sparse again, but still very comfortable.

We took to bed early that night as the next day would begin at 4:30am for a walk up to Poon Hill to witness the sunrise.

Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani, NepalTikhedhunga to Ghorepani, NepalTikhedhunga to Ghorepani, Nepal

Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani, NepalTikhedhunga to Ghorepani, NepalTikhedhunga to Ghorepani, Nepal

Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani, NepalTikhedhunga to Ghorepani, NepalTikhedhunga to Ghorepani, Nepal

Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani, NepalTikhedhunga to Ghorepani, Nepal

Day 1 

Day 3 

Day 4

Day 5

Day 6

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